Post Type ArchivesRecipes

Wild Asparagus, Tomatoes, Sharmoula

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Asparagus, cherry tomatoes, sharmoula

I already told you Sharmoula was the secret for the tastiest fish tagine. But we also need recipes for those many nights when you have neither the time nor the will to wait almost 2 hours for dinner.

Wild Asparagus, Tomatoes, Sharmoula is just this : a bold veggie, healthy weeknight recipe. It is as lazy as it gets, and guaranteed to be on the table within 30 minutes :

  • Whip up a quick Sharmoula (10 minutes)
  • Start cooking your rice
  • Halve your cherry tomatoes & mix with Sharmoula
  • Pop in the oven
  • Add wild asparagus
  • Finish baking
  • Serve on top of rice. Tadam !

No trick, no complication and no mess in the kitchen. The only flavour key resides in the Sharmoula, that perfectly pairs with tomatoes for an acidic kick, which is then calmed by the nutty, grassy wild asparagus.

This is one of the many ways to enjoy fresh, homemade Sharmoula. I will post other tasty Sharmoula-based recipes, so stay tuned !

Wild Asparagus, Tomatoes, Sharmoula – Recipe

Ingredients – Where to find them

Those ingredients are quite easy to get from your typical grocery store, and you can easily replace some !

Ingredients – Advice & key points

  • Get your Sharmoula recipe here.
  • Warning : This is a seasonal recipe. I recommend making it in late spring, to get your hands on tasty wild asparagus and cherry tomatoes.
    • If you can’t find wild asparagus, replace them with classic asparagus ! Simply cut them into chunks & add ~5 more minutes of cooking time.
  • When in winter or summer, feel free to play around with the ingredients used !
    • In winter, if you’re not wary of the double-carbs thing  -I know I’m not !, I’d recommend a carrot-potato version ; of course, adjust the cooking time accordingly ;
    • In summer, I’d gladly make a red bell pepper-potato or red bell pepper-zucchini version.

Come now, let’s massage these veggies !

Char Siu Noodle Soup

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Char Siu Noodle Soup with wontons, pak choi and wonton noodles

Wontons, noodles, soup. I don’t know of a more comforting combination.

This lovely noodle soup can be a weeknight treasure, or a Sunday reward, depending on how you proceed. Several separate ingredient require a bit of hard work ; the Char Siu, the broth and the garlic oil need to be homemade -except if you can get your hands on tasty Char Siu. Hell, you can even make homemade wontons if you’re motivated enough.

As a former financial analyst, I’ve always been fond of yield analysis. What matters most is not the upfront effort, nor the overall absolute cost ; it’s the yield -basically here, the ouput to input ratio. I’d gladly invest 4h in my kitchen to get a dozen of delicious ready-meals to assemble !

That’s typically what this kind of recipe is about. Once each component is ready, it keeps well in the either the freezer (Char Siu, broth) or the fridge (garlic oil). You’ll have enough for delicious noodle soups, to assemble within 15 minutes any day of the week ! The dream ! 

Noodle soup is what I long for on a tiring weekday, when I’m in need of self-care. It’s usually a spicy Szechuan soup ; but ever since going to Thailand, I’ve become fond of clear broths -more subtle and balanced, 

Thai noodle soups often looks deceptively neutral. Well, they are not ; get ready for a Thai masterclass on balance. Not only does this delicate Thai clear pork broth show a banging depth of taste thanks to slow-cooked bones and fish sauce addition ; it gets some kick and tang from vinegar and chilies, and some freshness with cilantro and scallions.

Add amazeballs Char Siu, a bit of garlic oil, and thin, bouncy noodles : you’re in for a great, great time!

Char Siu Noodle Soup – Recipe

Ingredients – Advice & key points

  • Use the recipe for the Thai clear pork broth ; I really do not recommend using a premade broth for this specific recipe, as the broth is absolutely key in the delicate flavours of this dish.
  • You can either buy Char Siu from your local Asian store, if they have some, or use my Char Siu recipe.
  • Feel free to skip the wontons, the noodle soup by itself slays.
  • I highly recommend making the garlic oil, as it adds a subtle key flavour to the dish. It only requires around 10 minutes.

Let’s get soupy!

Authentic Pasta al Limone (Lemon pasta)

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Spaghetti al limone (lemon spaghetti with sage ribbons)

A long time ago, I tried to make lemon pasta my way. I thought olive oil was the way to go ; since the dishes finds its roots in Southern Italy, particularly in the Amalfi Coast and Sicily, where lemons are abundant and famously fragrant, I thought it was only fitting to favour Mediterranean ingredients only.

Unfortunately, the dish turned out way too acidic. Maybe I didn’t add enough olive oil though, because the Sicilian way includes olive oil and is famously tasty, too. But the Amalfi Coast (Campania) way is all about butter (and, sometimes, Parmigiano) :

  • Butter contains dairy solids and a bit of sweetness that mellow the sharpness of lemon juice.

  • Olive oil, while flavorful ;

    • is more neutral in mouthfeel and doesn’t buffer the acidity as effectively. Hence, the lemon’s tang can more easily come off as too harsh or sour ;

    • doesn’t emulsify as easily, so you may end up with an oily or watery texture and sharp acidic bursts rather than a smooth coating.

I give credits when it’s due, and all the credit for this recipe goes to Simone Zanoni. I followed his own buttery method for pasta al Limone, in which :

  • he creates a butter emulsion first, with the help of homemade vegetable broth ;
  • he then adds the butter emulsion to his pasta, a tad more than halfway through the cooking process ;
  • he waits towards the end to add lemon juice and zest, to preserve their flavour intensity ;
  • he finishes it off with pasta water and sage.

The butter emulsion thing might seem intimidating ; it is absolutely not ! Simply use a hand mixer and it’ll be done in a few minutes. If you don’t own one, use a whisk, and it should take the same time -but with a slightly bigger effort.

The end flavour was absolutely amazing. Very lemony, fragrant, but with any excess acidity entirely balanced out by the butter emulsion. I mean, look closely at the picture ; this kind of creamy, velvety sauce can’t lie. 

Pasta al Limone – Recipe

Ingredients – Advice & key points

I usually go to Eataly to get the produce I need. If you don’t have one near your location, you can find pasta and Parmigiano at your local Italian deli, maybe even your pasta. For pasta, if not available there, you should be able to order it online quite easily.

  • Pasta 
    • I believe spaghetti is a great choice here, or any long-shaped pasta kind, as the light velvety sauce will cling to it.

What you must not compromise on is using Bronze Drawn pasta.

Why so ? Because when processed this way, the pasta will present small irregularities that will enable the sauce to cling to it.

  • Lemon 
    • Since we’re using lemon zest here, please buy an organic lemon ;
    • This pasta will only be as tasty as your lemon is : buy a quality lemon ! You want a thick skin, and an aromatic smell.
      • In France, for example, go for the Menton lemon if you can find some.
  • Vegetable stock 
    • I always save my veggies scraps in a ziplock bag that in keep in my freezer.
      • After a few cooking sessions, you’ll have enough to make 1 to 2L of veggie stock ;
      • Simply add to water with 1 tsp salt. Simmer (don’t boil!) 45mn to 1h ; your veggie stock is done.
      • Keep the stock in your freezer, in ice cube trays, and use as needed.
    • If feeling lazy, use premade veggie stock or even water only : it will still be delicious.
  • Butter emulsion
    • You can double it and freeze it in ice cube trays, too, to make the recipe even quicker the next time.

Cooking your pasta – Pieces of advice

  • Pasta
    • It is essential to salt your pasta water appropriately. 10g of salt/liter/100g of pasta is fitting here.
    • As for most pasta recipe, we’ll finish cooking the pasta in the pan with the sauce. We’ll put them in when half cooked (around 6mn in).
    • It is important that you start tasting 2 minutes before the packet theoretical time, so that you get perfect al dente pasta.

Now come and cook !

Char Siu Bánh mì

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Char Siu Banh Mi in a baguette, with cilantro, Do Chua, green chilies and pâté

I had already made an unauthentic Sausage Banh Mi ; I’m going to keep the Banh Mi momentum going, this time with a Char Siu Bánh mì.

Char Siu Bánh mì is a tad more authentic considering how popular Char Siu is in Vietnam, due to the significant Chinese (especially Hoa people) influence in southern Vietnam, especially in cities like Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon).

I wanted to include paté, which is a spreadable, seasoned liver paste used in traditional Vietnamese bánh mì. It’s smooth, rich, and spread on the bread to add moisture and deep umami flavor. I mistakenly bought pâté chả (liver sausage) instead , which is also used in bánh mì — but differently. This firmer version can be used in slices alongside other meat cuts, which is what I did ; and it worked well!

The combination of meats, especially the star, juicy Char Siu, worked wonders with the tang of Do Chua (pickled daikon & carrots), and the fresh cilantro, cucumber and green chilies addition.

Now of course, you might not have Char Siu, mayo, pickled carrot and radishes on hand. If you’re feeling lazy, do not hesitate to buy each item from an Asian store. What I tend to do instead, because I love it homemade, is to prep each item a different day :

  • Char Siu is a week-end prospect, that you can prep when you can and keep in the freezer for a long time ;
  • Some other day, take 20 minutes to make some super easy Do Chua ;
  • On D-Day or the day before, make your mayo ;
  • Then all you have to do is assemble this sandwich, within 15 minutes !

This might look like a lot of work, but keep in mind that you can make a dozen dishes out of it all :

  • With your Do Chua, you can make banh mis and bo buns / bun thit nuong ;
  • With your Char Siu, you can easily make dry noodles, noodle soups, rice bowls, baos… and this beautiful Bánh mì !
  • With Mayo… need I say anything ? Salads, sandwiches, meat ; everything tastes better with homemade mayo.

This prep work was well worth it. You’ll find here all the flavour markers of true Bánh mìs – and yes, I don’t like maggi sauce, so I don’t use it.

If you love Bánh mìs like I do, give it a go !

Char Siu Bánh mì – Recipe

Ingredients – Advice & key points

  • Char Siu : I recommend using homemade Char Siu. You can use my Char Siu recipe.
  • Paté : If you can find some Vietnamese paté at your Asian grocery store, use it ! If not, skip it, it’s no central ingredient.
  • Mayonnaise : I recommend using a homemade mayonnaise. You can use my recipe for a foolproof mayonnaise.
  • Do Chua (Daikon and carrot pickles) : You can use my Do Chua recipe. If you cannot find Daikons Daikon, a big white radish, at the fresh produce section of your Asian grocery store, simply use classic red radishes.
  • Baguette : I really prefer my baguette not overly crispy in Bánh mìs, which is more traditional and would make it less agreeable while eating.

Let’s sandwich !

Do Chua (Pickled Carrot and Daikon)

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Do Chua in a glass jar (pickled daikon and carrots)

I’m you’ve ever had Vienamese Buns (Bun Bo/Tom/Ga = litterally “beef”/”shrimp”/”chicken” and “rice vermicelli”) or Banh Mis, you’re familiar with Do Chua.

Do Chua literally means “sour things” in Vietnamese, and it refers specifically to the pickled carrot and daikon radish mix that’s a staple condiment in Vietnamese cuisine. It is heavily influenced by East Asian pickling practices (particularly Chinese), but adapted to local Vietnamese flavors : what I love about it is its brighter, sweeter and sour taste profile, compared to other pungent, vinegary pickles.

Whenever you feel like balancing out some rich, savoury foods, these pickles can be a must-have ; I would never eat Banh Mis without Do Chua. Besides the classic Vietnamese dishes mentionned, I like to use them :

  • in rice bowls, especially when they include meat ;
  • is spring rolls, particularly fresh rather than fried ones.

Plus, as I already claimed in my Pickled Onions recipe, pickles are so easy to make that there really is no excuse ! You need around 15 minutes and 4 ingredients besides water and salt to get them done. And all your friends will think you’re so gourmet because you have homemade pickles in your fridge. 

Recipe – Advice & Key points

  • How to cut your veggies : You have three different options :
    • You can use a specific Do Chua mandolin, such as this one. What I like best about it is that you don’t need to leave the veggies to drain with salt, since they’re so thin that they already have this bending feature we’re looking for. 
    • If using a classic mandolin of a knife, no issue ! I’ve made it several time. Simply keep in mind that if your matchsticks are a tad thick and can’t easily bend, you need to let them sit with salt around 10-15 minutes so that they render out their moisture.   
  • What if you can’t find Daikon : No worries : replace it with classic radishes (still cut into matchsticks), or only use carrots. 

Moroccan carrot salad

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Moroccan carrot salad with spices, cilantro and lemon

There’s this couscous restaurant in Courbevoie, le Timgad, that our colleague wanted to take us all to. The place was a 20 minutes car ride away from work, the distance in itself meaning a lot considering our usual lazy walking tendencies. 

The car ride was worth it. It is, to day, the best couscous I’ve ever tried outside my house- my mom’s being of course the natural first. If you ever go, try the Couscous Méchoui and thank me later. 

This restaurant served some lovely carrot salads as complimentary appetizers. You grab them with toothpicks ; I loved it, and had trouble not finishing by myself the small plate to share. 

I came home and wondered about this carrot salad. Was it a no-cook salad ? Or maybe cooked carrots, but a no-cook vinaigrette ? 

I researched by subject dutifully. I quickly learnt that the most authentic and widespread Moroccan version of carrot salad is usually based on carrots cooked directly in a pan. It allows for the candied flavour of the spices brought about by the cooking process. 

The recipe process is very rewarding, involving little effort for massive flavour : 

  • Slice your carrots thinly
  • Add them to a pan with spices, garlic, preserved lemon, and honey
  • Cook with water until tender
  • Finish the seasonings with lemon juice, cilantro and olive oil.

That is all ! The lemon flavour is key here : the lemon juice perfume is enhanced by my preserved lemon addition, which is not typical in your Moroccan carrot salad ; but I guarantee it is well worth adding.

The end result is a very fragrant warm or cold dish with a tender yet firm texture. 

Moroccan carrot salad – Recipe

Ingredients – Where to find them

  • You should be able to find all the ingredients at your classic grocery store.
    • The only limitation could be the Beldi (preserved) lemon ; if not available at your usual place, find a local oriental grocery store, or buy a jar online !

Recipe – Advice & key points

  • This happens to be a fully vegan and quite balanced recipe, yay ! 
  • If possible and in season, use carrots with tops, which are often sweeter, softer and less fibrous.
    • If not, usual carrots, which are used here, are perfectly fine !
  • To make for a more delicate dish :
    • Slice your carrots quite thinly, around 1.5mm thick ; 
    • Try to use evenly-sized carrots, ideally.
  • Pay attention to the cooking time for your carrots ; we aim for tender yet still firm. They should be fine after around 6 minutes after the water is added for 1.5mm thick carrots, but do a taste test to check the texture.
    • You don’t want mushy carrots ; think that you should be able to grab one slice with a toothpick. 
    • If in doubt, start with ~100ml, then add more later as needed. 
  • I recommend serving this recipe as an appetizer to share. Used this way, the quantities listed easily yield around 6 portions.

All set ? Let’s cook some sunny carrots !

Char Siu rice with red sauce

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Charsiu Pork with red sauce and rice and broccoli

Char Siu is the stepping stone atop which you can easily build a dozen dishes. You will find several examples of the ways to enjoy it on this website, be it in a noodle soup, with dry noodles, in a baguette, or of course, with rice.

Amongst the Char Siu variations I’ve tried in Thailand, Khao Moo Deng, a Thai-Chinese take on Cantonese Char Siu Pork, was my favourite. It was also the simplest ; rice, Char Siu, its sauce, and that’s almost it. You would typically add an egg, halved, and cucumbers in the Thai version ; I went for a more Cantonese version instead, that has a thicker, spice-rich sauce, and added some broccoli, which bring an interesting bitterness to the dish.

I had the Thai-Chinese version of this dish in Thailand, on the road from Bangkok to Chiang Mai ; we bought it from street vendors, at the station where we took our night train. It might look dry, but it came with a lovely side red sauce that you can see on the picture, in a plastic bag. It is a slightly sweeter, more liquidy take on the cantonese Char Siu sauce, but it is equally lovely.

Char Siu pork with rice in Thailand

Bonus point : If your Char Siu is ready, this recipe takes as long as your rice to cook.

Char Siu with rice – Recipe

Ingredients – Advice & key points

  • Char Siu Pork
    • If feeling lazy, simply buy it premade from your nearest Chinese market, if it offers some. Don’t forget to ask for its sauce on the side !
    • I advise you to make it yourself : here is my Char Siu recipe, easy and providing you with enough leftovers for lots of different meals !
    • Tip : Keep some in your freezer for whenever you fancy.
  • Rice
    • I recommend using jasmine rice for this recipe.
  • Toppings
    • My only non-negociables here would only be some good Char Siu and sauce. You can skip any other item !
    • Additional toppings can be lovely though. Feel free to add any type of greens you like, pickled chili peppers, fried garlic/shallots, halved boiled or soft-boiled eggs…. Have some fun !

Let’s get saucy!

Dry Char Siu Noodles (Ba Mee Haeng Moo Daeng)

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Dry Char Siu Noodles with wontons and baby bok choy

Dry Char Siu Noodles is the first item of my Charsiu series, mostly inspired by my trip to Thailand last year.

Thailand ? But Char Siu Pork is typically Chinese, right ?

Yep, but then history and migrations came into play. In Thailand, dishes like Char Siu noodles, Char Siu noodle soup, and Char Siu over rice are extremely popular and widely considered part of everyday Thai food culture.

Thailand has a large and influential Thai-Chinese population, particularly from southern China (like the Teochew and Hokkien communities). Over generations, Chinese immigrants brought dishes like char siu, wonton noodles, and rice dishes — and adapted them to local tastes.

I’m very thankful for these population shifts, that gave birth to the best of what Thai street-food has to offer ; proof again, if needs be, that through diversity we emerge stronger.

I have a strong Dry Char Siu memory, which dates back from the very first evening of our trip. After walking across Bangkok, by and large, we simply wanted to sit and grab noodles. I had a great hole-in-the-wall place in mind, and we were struggling to find it.

Finally, we spotted it into a tiny alley ; an unassuming street-food stall, with noodles, broth, Char Siu, crab meat, and a few toppings. That’s all. When me smelled the smells, though, and watched the beauty of these simple bowls, we immediately ordered, super excited.

This was bliss. I remember eating it and thinking I could easily order two in a row. I tried to recreate it just the way it was, minus the crab meat ; it was close -but not as perfect as this beautiful bowl you see.

Bonus : If your Char Siu is ready, this really is a 15 minutes recipe.

Dry Char Siu Noodles – Recipe

Ingredients – Advice & key points

  • Char Siu Pork
    • If feeling lazy, simply buy it premade from your nearest Chinese market, if it offers some ;
    • I advise you to make it yourself : here is my Char Siu recipe, easy and providing you with enough leftovers for lots of different meals !
    • Tip : Keep some in your freezer for whenever you fancy.
    • As a replacement for Char Siu, you can definitely use canned crab meat.
  • Noodles & Wontons
    • I recommend using fresh, thin, yellow egg noodles (Ba Mee), similar to Cantonese-style wonton noodles.
    • If not available, use any type of dry noodles (quite thin, idelly) you have on hand !
    • Wontons are fully optional here.
    • Tip : To avoid sticky noodles, was them with cold watern then with warm water right before serving.
  • Toppings
    • My non-negociables here would only be scallions.
    • Besides this, feel free to add any type of greens you like, pickled chili peppers, fried garlic/shallots…. These are your noods !

Let’s get saucy!

Authentic Char Siu Pork (Barbecue pork)

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Shiny Glazed Char Siu Pork

I recently discovered Le Royal China, an authentic Chinese restaurant in Paris. Proper Dim Sums were finally on the menu, but also Char Siu Pork, and Peking Duck ! I couldn’t wait to try the Char Siu, to see how it compared to my own recipe.

I do not mean to boast, and I’m simply being transparent : mine was vastly better than the restaurant’s version, be it texture-wise or taste-wise.

In my recipe, the meat is properly grilled, which you can always adjust towards the end, as it massively depends on your oven types. The pork is tender and juicy, with a strong savoury taste due to the hoisin sauce, fermented bean curd and soy sauce, all enriched with the 5-spices and the sugar/honey. This gives birth to a mesmerizing glaze, that is as tasty as it is shiny and pretty on the outside.

This glaze is the reason why my favourite way of eating Char Siu is extremely simple : a bowl of rice, Char Siu slices, a generous glaze amount, and a few cucumber slices. That’s it. That really is all you need, because Char Siu is a powerhouse it itself.

Char Siu might seem intimidating at first, as all large pieces of charred meats seem to involve lots of work. It is actually much simpler than it looks, with 20 minutes of prep work, and 40 minutes of oven-cooking, tops :

  • First, cut your pork shoulder along the grain, in long 4 to 5 cm strips. Other recipes recommend around 2cm strips, but I find it juicier that way ;
  • Poke your meat well with a fork ;
  • Make your marinade, then pour it with your pork in a ziploc bag ;
  • Let it rest at least 7 hours ;
  • Cook it a preaheated oven, and glaze it 3 times while it cooks.

This dish shows that Chinese cuisine has much more to offer than your usual stir-fries, noodles and raviolis. Every bite is a contrast of texture and taste—a dance of crisp, chewy, and meltingly tender. There’s a primal satisfaction in it, with the full barbecue pleasure dressed up wih a bold, sweet-smoky glaze.

Plus, this is your ideal crowd-friendly dish. The overall cost for 12 servings was around 15€, including the marinade ingredients. Seriously, less than 1€ per serving. For something that tastes positively splendid.

Bon appétit !

Authentic Char Siu Pork (Barbecue pork) – Recipe

Ingredients – Advice & key points

  • Be careful to account for the marinade time ! It’s best to prep this dish the day before you cook it. Do not let it marinade more than 24 hours though, or the texture might be less juicy.
  • If you want to have enough sauce to make around 6 servings of Char Siu with rice, double the marinade amount and save half of it before marinating the pork ; after a few minutes in the pan, this will be your sauce.
  • Pork :
    • I really recommend pork shoulder (pork neck, more precisely : in French, careful, it is “échine de porc” that you need, not “épaule de porc”) for this recipe. as it reaches the perfect amount of fat to muscle to make it juicy, but not excessively greasy. You can still go for the fattier pork belly if you feel like it, or if that’s what you can get.
    • Also, remember to cut against the grain to get a tender texture.
  • Marinade ingredients :
    • You will need to go to a decent Asian store to find what you need, especially for the red fermented bean curd, which looks like this :

Lao Heng He Red Fermented Bean Curd - 285g – Umall - Australia's Largest Online Asian Supermarket

    • Red food coloring : It’s OK if you cannot find this, as it only serves esthetic purposes ; the glaze is even more appealing in a deep red color than a darkish brow one.
  • The remaining ingredients are either basic Asian pantry items or produce you can easily find at the grocery store.

How to eat Char Siu Pork

  • There are several delicious ways of eating Char Siu Pork, my favourites being :
    • Char Siu Pork over Rice, with the glaze and a few cucumbers of blanched Pak Choi ;
    • Char Siu Noodle soup ;
    • Dry Char Siu Noodles ;
    • Char Siu Banh Mi.

Let’s dig into it !