On a busy day, I came home and checked out my fridge. Leftover cucumber, cilantro, chilies and feta cheese from veggie tacos making. Damn. A sad salad seemed to be incoming. Or a Deliveroo.
Do not, however, understimate the power of a well-stocked pantry and freezer ! On days like this, they can save your supper. Green peas ? Always in the freezer. Semolina ? Check. Lemon ? Always one lying around.
And just like that, within 15 minutes, dinner was on the table ; not a sad one, mind you. My companion truthfully kept going on how tasty it was.
The process was easy peasy :
Pour warm water on your semolina, and wait 10mn ;
Blanch frozen peas ;
Slice up your greens (at least cucumber/radishes, shallots/onions + cilantro/mint) ;
Mix it all together with olive oil and sharmoula/green harissa ;
Serve and top with feta cheese !
The feta cheese is essential here, giving a true generosity to this fresh, pleasant couscous salad. It’s an amazing no-cook dish to have up your sleeve on those days when it’s too hot out there ; or when even putting a kettle on the stove seems too daunting. Plus, there’s almost no dishes to be done ! Yay !
Couscous Salad with Feta – Recipe
Ingredients – Where to find them
Those ingredients are easy to get from your typical grocery store, and for those which aren’t, you can easily skip them or replace them !
Ingredients – Advice & key points
Don’t want to make a Sharmoula ? Replace it with green harissa – this is what I initially did, and it worked wonders.
Green harissa is quite mild and we don’t use much here. If you don’t like it spicy, just remove the green chili pepper instead !
Optional : Add 1 tsp ofcurry powder to get some additional depth of taste.
Feel free to play around with the ingredients used !
Replace the veggies with what you have on hands ! You could use either cucumber or radishes, or replace them with red bell pepper ; or, replace shallots with onions or green onions, and so on.
Go for what feels right for you when it comes to herbs ! I find that cilantro and mint work really well here, but chives would be fine too.
I really recommend frozen peas instead of canned peas ; they are significantly better texture-wise and don’t get overly mushy.
I’ve had this one too many times to count. The guest of honour of any students’ barbecue, of so many festivals : I give you, the Merguez sandwich !
You can’t make it any simpler ; the classic version is the following :
Grab a baguette,
Spread mayo generously,
Top with two barbecued merguez,
and devour !
This Merguez sandwich is usually accompanied by french fries -or with fries straight into the sandwich. If you’re lucky, the place could even offer a harissa spread. Harissa plus mayo = heaven.
But why a Merguez sandwich in France ? As you guessed, it originates from North Africa (particularly Algeria, Tunisia, and Morocco). It became widely popular in France during the 20th century, especially after waves of immigration from former French colonies in North Africa. These communities brought their culinary traditions with them, including merguez.
Over time, the merguez sandwich became a street-food staple in:
French markets and festivals
Snack bars and kebab shops
Barbecue culture (“grillades”), especially in southern France.
In terms of popularity in France, the Merguez sandwich is neck and neck with the Sausage sandwich. Same idea, but usually with a mustard and mayo spread. Yum.
See the simplicity of it ? No topping, no veggie at all. You won’t easily find a recipe on the internet, because it’s basic. But still tasty as hell ; I’d grab either sandwich any day.
I decided to make a slightly more elaborate and personal version of this sandwich I love, by including a green, chili-based condiment. This one is for my spicy lovers : between the spiced merguez itself, the harissa paste, and my chili-based condiment, you’re in for a ride. A very pleasant, kick-ass ride. The vinegary condiment, besides its heat, brings a much needed acidity that offsets the fat from the Merguez and mayo. The cilantro also adds a touch of freshness –and seriously, could we possibly make an oriental sandwich without cilantro ? I think not !
You should either be able to find merguez in your usual grocery stores in France, or at specialty butchers or Middle Eastern/North African grocery stores if you’re in the US or in the rest of Europe.
If you can barbecue them, definitely do ! If not, pan-fried merguez will be super tasty anyway.
If you cannot find fresh baguette, use frozen ones !
You can also replace it itwith a Sub Roll, Hoagie Roll or Ciabatta Roll, depending on when you live.
Turkish Pide or Flatbread would also work great !
Pickled chili peppers are optional ; replace them with 1/2 fresh green chili pepper and one more teaspoon vinegar.
I apologize in advance to all my Italian friends ; this is not an authentic pasta fredda from your nonna.
It does respect the basics, yes -no mayo nor cream ; a simple olive oil and lemon dressing ; lots of fresh basil, and protein only used sparingly.
But smoked salmon is nothing Italian.
I get it. I still like this version very much ; I find it to be a fresher take on the prosciutto version, extremely pleasing for when it’s scalding hot outside. In France, the weather recently reached 38°C ; I therefore declared pasta salad season officially open !
For pasta salads as in all things, less is more. Still, simple dishes need to be executed properly : here are my tips for a great pasta salad :
Use decent olive oil !
Don’t decide to thinly dice your cucumber/tomatoes/onion here. You won’t be able to grab them with your pasta using your fork. You will be pissed.
Textures matter. Pasta salads can be on the softer side ; by adding cucumber, you bring forward a much needed crunch.
Put your veggies in the fridge at least 10mn once they’re cut : this salad will be tastier when everything is properly fresh.
Don’t skip the basil. Fresh basil is a huge flavour booster here.
Don’t forget the salt. A large pinch is needed for 2 servings.
Salad bar who ?! ME is the salad bar.
Smoked Salmon Pasta Salad – Recipe
Ingredients – Where to find them
Here, no issues should arise in finding them !
Ingredients – Advice & key points
Not much to say here ; it’s a straight-forward salad!
Don’t make this pasta salad in winter ! Tomatoes are just tasteless and so would the salad be.
Feel free to switch herbs ! Use wild garlic when in season, or chives, even though the taste would be less intense.
I recommend using quality smoked salmon if you can, with indications of a responsible farming process.
If making this salad ahead of time, do not put salt nor add dressing to the part you’re saving for later. You need to add it last minute.
All set ? Let’s make this Smoked Salmon Pasta Salad !
I already told you Sharmoula was the secret for the tastiest fish tagine. But we also need recipes for those many nights when you have neither the time nor the will to wait almost 2 hours for dinner.
Wild Asparagus, Tomatoes, Sharmoula is just this : a bold veggie, healthy weeknight recipe. It is as lazy as it gets, and guaranteed to be on the table within 30 minutes :
Whip up a quick Sharmoula (10 minutes)
Start cooking your rice
Halve your cherry tomatoes & mix with Sharmoula
Pop in the oven
Add wild asparagus
Finish baking
Serve on top of rice. Tadam !
No trick, no complication and no mess in the kitchen. The only flavour key resides in the Sharmoula, that perfectly pairs with tomatoes for an acidic kick, which is then calmed by the nutty, grassy wild asparagus.
This is one of the many ways to enjoy fresh, homemade Sharmoula. I will post other tasty Sharmoula-based recipes, so stay tuned !
Wild Asparagus, Tomatoes, Sharmoula – Recipe
Ingredients – Where to find them
Those ingredients are quite easy to get from your typical grocery store, and you can easily replace some !
Warning : This is a seasonal recipe. I recommend making it in late spring, to get your hands on tasty wild asparagus and cherry tomatoes.
If you can’t find wild asparagus, replace them with classic asparagus ! Simply cut them into chunks & add ~5 more minutes of cooking time.
When in winter or summer, feel free to play around with the ingredients used !
In winter, if you’re not wary of the double-carbs thing -I know I’m not !, I’d recommend a carrot-potato version ; of course, adjust the cooking time accordingly ;
In summer, I’d gladly make a red bell pepper-potato or red bell pepper-zucchini version.
Wontons, noodles, soup. I don’t know of a more comforting combination.
This lovely noodle soup can be a weeknight treasure, or a Sunday reward, depending on how you proceed. Several separate ingredient require a bit of hard work ; the Char Siu, the broth and the garlic oil need to be homemade -except if you can get your hands on tasty Char Siu. Hell, you can even make homemade wontons if you’re motivated enough.
As a former financial analyst, I’ve always been fond of yield analysis. What matters most is not the upfront effort, nor the overall absolute cost ; it’s the yield -basically here, the ouput to input ratio. I’d gladly invest 4h in my kitchen to get a dozen of delicious ready-meals to assemble !
That’s typically what this kind of recipe is about. Once each component is ready, it keeps well in the either the freezer (Char Siu, broth) or the fridge (garlic oil). You’ll have enough for delicious noodle soups, to assemble within 15 minutes any day of the week ! The dream !
Noodle soup is what I long for on a tiring weekday, when I’m in need of self-care. It’s usually a spicy Szechuan soup ; but ever since going to Thailand, I’ve become fond of clear broths -more subtle and balanced,
Thai noodle soups often looks deceptively neutral. Well, they are not ; get ready for a Thai masterclass on balance. Not only does this delicate Thai clear pork broth show a banging depth of taste thanks to slow-cooked bones and fish sauce addition ; it gets some kick and tang from vinegar and chilies, and some freshness with cilantro and scallions.
Add amazeballs Char Siu, a bit of garlic oil, and thin, bouncy noodles : you’re in for a great, great time!
Char Siu Noodle Soup – Recipe
Ingredients – Advice & key points
Use the recipe for the Thai clear pork broth ; I really do not recommend using a premade broth for this specific recipe, as the broth is absolutely key in the delicate flavours of this dish.
You can either buy Char Siu from your local Asian store, if they have some, or use my Char Siu recipe.
Feel free to skip the wontons, the noodle soup by itself slays.
I highly recommend making the garlic oil, as it adds a subtle key flavour to the dish. It only requires around 10 minutes.
A long time ago, I tried to make lemon pasta my way. I thought olive oil was the way to go ; since the dishes finds its roots in Southern Italy, particularly in the Amalfi Coast and Sicily, where lemons are abundant and famously fragrant, I thought it was only fitting to favour Mediterranean ingredients only.
Unfortunately, the dish turned out way too acidic. Maybe I didn’t add enough olive oil though, because the Sicilian way includes olive oil and is famously tasty, too. But the Amalfi Coast (Campania) way is all about butter (and, sometimes, Parmigiano) :
Butter contains dairy solids and a bit of sweetness that mellow the sharpness of lemon juice.
Olive oil, while flavorful ;
is more neutral in mouthfeel and doesn’t buffer the acidity as effectively. Hence, the lemon’s tang can more easily come off as too harsh or sour ;
doesn’t emulsify as easily, so you may end up with an oily or watery texture and sharp acidic bursts rather than a smooth coating.
I give credits when it’s due, and all the credit for this recipe goes to Simone Zanoni. I followed his own buttery method for pasta al Limone, in which :
he creates a butter emulsion first, with the help of homemade vegetable broth ;
he then adds the butter emulsion to his pasta, a tad more than halfway through the cooking process ;
he waits towards the end to add lemon juice and zest, to preserve their flavour intensity ;
he finishes it off with pasta water and sage.
The butter emulsion thing might seem intimidating ; it is absolutely not ! Simply use a hand mixer and it’ll be done in a few minutes. If you don’t own one, use a whisk, and it should take the same time -but with a slightly bigger effort.
The end flavour was absolutely amazing. Very lemony, fragrant, but with any excess acidity entirely balanced out by the butter emulsion. I mean, look closely at the picture ; this kind of creamy, velvety sauce can’t lie.
Pasta al Limone – Recipe
Ingredients – Advice & key points
I usually go to Eataly to get the produce I need. If you don’t have one near your location, you can find pasta and Parmigiano at your local Italian deli, maybe even your pasta. For pasta, if not available there, you should be able to order it online quite easily.
Pasta
I believe spaghetti is a great choice here, or any long-shaped pasta kind, as the light velvety sauce will cling to it.
What you must not compromise on is using Bronze Drawn pasta.
Why so ? Because when processed this way, the pasta will present small irregularities that will enable the sauce to cling to it.
Lemon
Since we’re using lemon zest here, please buy an organic lemon ;
This pasta will only be as tasty as your lemon is : buy a quality lemon ! You want a thick skin, and an aromatic smell.
In France, for example, go for the Menton lemon if you can find some.
Vegetable stock
I always save my veggies scraps in a ziplock bag that in keep in my freezer.
After a few cooking sessions, you’ll have enough to make 1 to 2L of veggie stock ;
Simply add to water with 1 tsp salt. Simmer (don’t boil!) 45mn to 1h ; your veggie stock is done.
Keep the stock in your freezer, in ice cube trays, and use as needed.
If feeling lazy, use premade veggie stock or even water only : it will still be delicious.
Butter emulsion
You can double it and freeze it in ice cube trays, too, to make the recipe even quicker the next time.
Cooking your pasta – Pieces of advice
Pasta
It is essential to salt your pasta water appropriately. 10g of salt/liter/100g of pasta is fitting here.
As for most pasta recipe, we’ll finish cooking the pasta in the pan with the sauce. We’ll put them in when half cooked (around 6mn in).
It is important that you start tasting 2 minutes before the packet theoretical time, so that you get perfect al dente pasta.
I had already made an unauthentic Sausage Banh Mi ; I’m going to keep the Banh Mi momentum going, this time with a Char Siu Bánh mì.
Char Siu Bánh mì is a tad more authentic considering how popular Char Siu is in Vietnam, due to the significant Chinese (especially Hoa people) influence in southern Vietnam, especially in cities like Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon).
I wanted to include paté, which is a spreadable, seasoned liver paste used in traditional Vietnamese bánh mì. It’s smooth, rich, and spread on the bread to add moisture and deep umami flavor. I mistakenly bought pâté chả (liver sausage) instead , which is also used in bánh mì — but differently. This firmer version can be used in slices alongside other meat cuts, which is what I did ; and it worked well!
The combination of meats, especially the star, juicy Char Siu, worked wonders with the tang of Do Chua (pickled daikon & carrots), and the fresh cilantro, cucumber and green chilies addition.
Now of course, you might not have Char Siu, mayo, pickled carrot and radishes on hand. If you’re feeling lazy, do not hesitate to buy each item from an Asian store. What I tend to do instead, because I love it homemade, is to prep each item a different day :
Char Siu is a week-end prospect, that you can prep when you can and keep in the freezer for a long time ;
Some other day, take 20 minutes to make some super easy Do Chua ;
On D-Day or the day before, make your mayo ;
Then all you have to do is assemble this sandwich, within 15 minutes !
This might look like a lot of work, but keep in mind that you can make a dozen dishes out of it all :
With your Do Chua, you can make banh mis and bo buns / bun thit nuong ;
With your Char Siu, you can easily make dry noodles, noodle soups, rice bowls, baos… and this beautiful Bánh mì !
With Mayo… need I say anything ? Salads, sandwiches, meat ; everything tastes better with homemade mayo.
This prep work was well worth it. You’ll find here all the flavour markers of true Bánh mìs – and yes, I don’t like maggi sauce, so I don’t use it.
If you love Bánh mìs like I do, give it a go !
Char Siu Bánh mì – Recipe
Ingredients – Advice & key points
Char Siu : I recommend using homemade Char Siu. You can use my Char Siu recipe.
Paté : If you can find some Vietnamese paté at your Asian grocery store, use it ! If not, skip it, it’s no central ingredient.
Mayonnaise : I recommend using a homemade mayonnaise. You can use my recipe for a foolproof mayonnaise.
Do Chua (Daikon and carrot pickles) : You can use my Do Chua recipe. If you cannot find Daikons Daikon, a big white radish, at the fresh produce section of your Asian grocery store, simply use classic red radishes.
Baguette: I really prefer my baguette not overly crispy in Bánh mìs, which is more traditional and would make it less agreeable while eating.
I’m you’ve ever had Vienamese Buns (Bun Bo/Tom/Ga = litterally “beef”/”shrimp”/”chicken” and “rice vermicelli”) or Banh Mis, you’re familiar with Do Chua.
Do Chua literally means “sour things” in Vietnamese, and it refers specifically to the pickled carrot and daikon radish mix that’s a staple condiment in Vietnamese cuisine. It is heavily influenced by East Asian pickling practices (particularly Chinese), but adapted to local Vietnamese flavors : what I love about it is its brighter, sweeter and sour taste profile, compared to other pungent, vinegary pickles.
Whenever you feel like balancing out some rich, savoury foods, these pickles can be a must-have ; I would never eat Banh Mis without Do Chua. Besides the classic Vietnamese dishes mentionned, I like to use them :
in rice bowls, especially when they include meat ;
is spring rolls, particularly fresh rather than fried ones.
Plus, as I already claimed in my Pickled Onions recipe, pickles are so easy to make that there really is no excuse ! You need around 15 minutes and 4 ingredients besides water and salt to get them done. And all your friends will think you’re so gourmet because you have homemade pickles in your fridge.
Recipe – Advice & Key points
How to cut your veggies: You have three different options :
You can use a specific Do Chua mandolin, such as this one. What I like best about it is that you don’t need to leave the veggies to drain with salt, since they’re so thin that they already have this bending feature we’re looking for.
If using a classic mandolin of a knife, no issue ! I’ve made it several time. Simply keep in mind that if your matchsticks are a tad thick and can’t easily bend, you need to let them sit with salt around 10-15 minutes so that they render out their moisture.
What if you can’t find Daikon: No worries : replace it with classic radishes (still cut into matchsticks), or only use carrots.
There’s this couscous restaurant in Courbevoie, le Timgad, that our colleague wanted to take us all to. The place was a 20 minutes car ride away from work, the distance in itself meaning a lot considering our usual lazy walking tendencies.
The car ride was worth it. It is, to day, the best couscous I’ve ever tried outside my house- my mom’s being of course the natural first. If you ever go, try the Couscous Méchoui and thank me later.
This restaurant served some lovely carrot salads as complimentary appetizers. You grab them with toothpicks ; I loved it, and had trouble not finishing by myself the small plate to share.
I came home and wondered about this carrot salad. Was it a no-cook salad ? Or maybe cooked carrots, but a no-cook vinaigrette ?
I researched by subject dutifully. I quickly learnt that the most authentic and widespread Moroccan version of carrot salad is usually based on carrots cooked directly in a pan. It allows for the candied flavour of the spices brought about by the cooking process.
The recipe process is very rewarding, involving little effort for massive flavour :
Slice your carrots thinly
Add them to a pan with spices, garlic, preserved lemon, and honey
Cook with water until tender
Finish the seasonings with lemon juice, cilantro and olive oil.
That is all ! The lemon flavour is key here : the lemon juice perfume is enhanced by my preserved lemon addition, which is not typical in your Moroccan carrot salad ; but I guarantee it is well worth adding.
The end result is a very fragrant warm or cold dish with a tender yet firm texture.
Moroccan carrot salad – Recipe
Ingredients – Where to find them
You should be able to find all the ingredients at your classic grocery store.
The only limitation could be the Beldi (preserved) lemon ; if not available at your usual place, find a local oriental grocery store, or buy a jar online !
Recipe – Advice & key points
This happens to be a fully vegan and quite balanced recipe, yay !
If possible and in season, use carrots with tops, which are often sweeter, softer and less fibrous.
If not, usual carrots, which are used here, are perfectly fine !
To make for a more delicate dish :
Slice your carrots quite thinly, around 1.5mm thick ;
Try to use evenly-sized carrots, ideally.
Pay attention to the cooking time for your carrots ; we aim for tender yet still firm. They should be fine after around 6 minutes after the water is added for 1.5mm thick carrots, but do a taste test to check the texture.
You don’t want mushy carrots ; think that you should be able to grab one slice with a toothpick.
If in doubt, start with ~100ml, then add more later as needed.
I recommend serving this recipe as an appetizer to share. Used this way, the quantities listed easily yield around 6 portions.
Char Siu is the stepping stone atop which you can easily build a dozen dishes. You will find several examples of the ways to enjoy it on this website, be it in a noodle soup, with dry noodles, in a baguette, or of course, with rice.
Amongst the Char Siu variations I’ve tried in Thailand, Khao Moo Deng, a Thai-Chinese take on Cantonese Char Siu Pork, was my favourite. It was also the simplest ; rice, Char Siu, its sauce, and that’s almost it. You would typically add an egg, halved, and cucumbers in the Thai version ; I went for a more Cantonese version instead, that has a thicker, spice-rich sauce, and added some broccoli, which bring an interesting bitterness to the dish.
I had the Thai-Chinese version of this dish in Thailand, on the road from Bangkok to Chiang Mai ; we bought it from street vendors, at the station where we took our night train. It might look dry, but it came with a lovely side red sauce that you can see on the picture, in a plastic bag. It is a slightly sweeter, more liquidy take on the cantonese Char Siu sauce, but it is equally lovely.
Bonus point : If your Char Siu is ready, this recipe takes as long as your rice to cook.
Char Siu with rice – Recipe
Ingredients – Advice & key points
Char Siu Pork
If feeling lazy, simply buy it premade from your nearest Chinese market, if it offers some. Don’t forget to ask for its sauce on the side !
I advise you to make it yourself : here is my Char Siu recipe, easy and providing you with enough leftovers for lots of different meals !
Tip : Keep some in your freezer for whenever you fancy.
Rice
I recommend using jasmine rice for this recipe.
Toppings
My only non-negociables here would only be some good Char Siu and sauce. You can skip any other item !
Additional toppings can be lovely though. Feel free to add any type of greens you like, pickled chili peppers, fried garlic/shallots, halved boiled or soft-boiled eggs…. Have some fun !